Costa Rica is without doubt one of the few international locations on Earth the place somebody can spend a whole week and go away with none actual sense of the native delicacies. The closest many vacationers ever get is making an attempt zapote and guanábana on the lodge breakfast bar, secluded inside a resort city, surrounded by expats. What they miss out on is one among Latin America’s most underappreciated cuisines.

It is a nation the place something and all the things grows. You may stroll down the busiest streets in San José and decide pitaya and wild tomatoes proper from the sidewalk. Past the cattle ranches and occasional plantations, small farmers develop greens like chayote, arracacha, and purple corn which can be usually bought by means of the nation’s huge community of ferías, the weekly regional farmers markets held in each nook of the nation. There are minty drinks from mucilaginous, chia-like seeds of a plant known as chan, and syrups made out of the carob-like pods of a tree known as carao. There are addictive bar snacks made out of beans and chicharrón, plus seafood from two coasts. Corn is ubiquitous, used to make tortillas, tamales, and cookies.

Plan to step exterior of the expat bubble, away from the multinational lodge chains and towards any small-town restaurant, market, or soda (a small, easy, usually family-run institution). That’s once you’ll see the world of Costa Rican delicacies start to open up. Right here, then, is a complete information to navigating all of the ins and outs of consuming in Costa Rica.

The Historical past of Costa Rican Delicacies

“We’re a wonderful mixture of cultures,” says chef Pablo Bonilla, whose restaurant Sikwa in San José reinterprets Indigenous recipes. “From Spain got here the Catalans, Andalusians, Galicians. Africans got here from Guinea, Ghana, and later by way of Jamaica. Plus, Indigenous descendants of the Mayas within the north and Chibchas within the south.”

Previous to colonization by the Spanish, Costa Rica fell in between the extra dominant cultural teams from the north and south, and the nation’s present-day Indigenous communities replicate this overlap. In Guanacaste and the Nicoya peninsula, communities of Chorotega, the southernmost descendants of the Maya, nonetheless develop and course of corn a lot in the identical approach they’ve for 1000’s of years. A lot of their conventional meals, corresponding to tortillas and pancake-like chorreadas, have been tailored by the broader inhabitants, whereas porridges and drinks made out of maíz pujagua, or purple corn, are extra remoted. To the south, within the mountainous Talamanca area, communities of Bribrí and Boruca individuals nonetheless dwell off the land, safeguarding many ancestral substances whereas rising cacao for wider consumption.

Like in the remainder of the area, colonization swept throughout the land like a hurricane, wiping out a lot of Costa Rica’s native foodways whereas introducing European livestock and agriculture. The Spanish reduce down forests to lift cattle and pigs and planted wheat and rice. Many nationwide recipes, corresponding to olla de carne and numerous sweets, are Spanish ideas tailored to native substances.

Whereas some Afro Costa Ricans are descended from enslaved Africans who have been forcibly dropped at the area through the colonial interval, a far higher quantity are descendants of the English-speaking Jamaican migrants who got here within the nineteenth century and settled on the Caribbean coast. Within the space, coconut milk is a staple ingredient, utilized in seafood stews like rondón or to cook dinner rice and beans, as are root greens like cassava and yams.

Whereas it hasn’t at all times been for one of the best, the USA has additionally left its mark on Costa Rican delicacies. A surge of individuals from the U.S. have migrated to the nation in current many years, greater than 120,000 by some estimates, and lots of have gone on to open eating places and begin small culinary tasks, with combined success. Nevertheless, U.S. affect has a a lot lengthier historical past tied to monocultures (banana, pineapples, espresso), which have had drastic results on the nation’s meals system in addition to the atmosphere.

Conventional Costa Rican Meals to Know

Gallo pinto (rice and beans)

Claimed by each Costa Rica and Nicaragua, gallo pinto is the regional variation of rice and beans, which is normally seasoned with bell peppers, cilantro, and onions. The identify, which interprets to “noticed rooster,” refers back to the spots of beans that stand out in opposition to the white rice, although typically the entire dish is simply known as pinto. For breakfast, it is likely to be served with a fried egg, whereas for lunch and dinner it’s a facet to meat or fish.

There are refined regional variations. As an example, black beans are the norm, although in Guanacaste, on the Pacific coast nearer to Nicaragua, pink beans are extra typical. The condiment Salsa Lizano, a light-weight brown sauce much like Worcestershire that’s discovered on most Costa Rican tables, is stirred into pots of gallo pinto in San José and across the Valle Central. On the Caribbean coast, it is likely to be cooked with coconut milk and chiles.

Chifrijo (fried pork with pink beans)

Almost each cantina in Costa Rica serves this bar snack, which is believed to have been first ready within the late ’70s on the (now closed) Cordero’s Bar within the city of Tibás exterior San José. Its identify is the mix of its two signature substances: fried pork (chicharrón) and beans (frijoles). It’s typically served with a base of rice or toppings like avocados and tomatoes, however the authentic preparation is eaten extra like a bowl of nachos, with tortilla chips and chilera (spicy pickled greens) on the facet.

Rondón (seafood and coconut stew)

No matter fish and greens a cook dinner has “run down” to by the tip of the week get thrown in a pot with coconut milk, herbs, and spices for this typical dish of Costa Rica’s Caribbean coast. The thick stew, discovered in lots of components of the Caribbean, was dropped at Central America by Jamaican laborers within the latter half of the nineteenth century. In Afro Costa Rican communities like Cahuita or Puerto Limón, rondón would possibly embrace pink snapper, clams, mussels, conch, or sea snails, plus inexperienced plantains, cassava, and chiles with a facet of coconut rice and breadfruit.

Casado (combo plate)

Translating to “married man,” the casado is Costa Rica’s typical lunch plate. There’s no set recipe, however slightly a normal mixture of merely ready greens with a protein. It is likely to be grilled fish, stewed beef, a pork chop, or fried rooster served with white rice, beans, and coleslaw or some type of salad of iceberg lettuce and tomatoes. Everybody makes it slightly in another way, although: They could add fried plantains, slices of avocado, tortillas, or a fried egg, relying on the area and the season.

Olla de carne (beef and vegetable stew)

Olla de carne is eaten each weekend in lots of Costa Rican houses, usually for household gatherings, because the lengthy cooking time and quantity of greens make it tough to arrange the dish in small parts. Beef, normally quick ribs and numerous off cuts, is simmered for 4 to eight hours with accompaniments that will embrace yuca, potatoes, chayote, carrots, corn, or plantains. It’s served with rice and beans on the facet, after all.

Picadillo (vegetable hash)

There’s no more true reflection of Costa Rica’s agricultural bounty than this homey hash, a easy mixture of chopped greens sauteed in fats with onions, inventory, herbs and different seasonings. The identify of the dish at all times states the first vegetable getting used, corresponding to picadillo de zapallo (squash), vainitas (inexperienced beans), chayote, arracache (arracacha), papa (potato), and even fruits like papaya. It turns into a full meal when served over white rice, typically with a protein like floor beef or chorizo, or on corn tortillas to make gallos, Costa Rica’s model of the taco.

Chorreadas (corn pancakes)

These candy or savory pancakes, made out of floor, recent white or yellow corn, are a staple in Costa Rican kitchens and sodas for breakfast. The commonest variations, the place the corn is floor by hand, may be traced to pre-Columbian instances, although right now the corn is extra more likely to be blended in a meals processor and thickened with flour and eggs. When candy (and they’re not often overly candy), they is likely to be drizzled with honey or syrup. When savory, a dollop of bitter cream-like natilla is normally served on high.

Ceviche

In contrast to its Peruvian counterpart, Costa Rican ceviche options fish that’s usually marinated in lime juice for a minimum of an hour within the fridge, slightly than simply seconds, leading to a extra opaque, much less raw-tasting fish. It’s normally made with peeled shrimp or agency white fish like sea bass, although typically you’ll discover chuchecas (blood clams) and a combination of finely chopped or minced onions, tomatoes, garlic, and cilantro. Many locals swear by a splash of ketchup or tabasco.

Tamales

Within the days earlier than Christmas, a favourite pastime is the tamaleada, when households get collectively to make the star of Christmas dinner: pork tamales. Costa Rican tamales have been tailored from their Indigenous origins to incorporate substances launched by colonization like rice, rooster, beef, and carrots. They’re by no means steamed in a corn husk; slightly, they’re at all times made in a banana leaf, and when two of them are tied collectively, as they’re usually bought, it’s known as a piña.

Copo (shaved ice)

On plazas and seashores all through Costa Rica, kiosks and roving carts concentrate on a neighborhood number of shaved ice known as copos or granizados. The cups or cones are topped with milk powder, flavored syrups, recent fruit, or marshmallows. Probably the most emblematic variation is the Churchill, which was named after a person in Puntarenas who regarded remarkably like Winston Churchill and at all times ordered his copo with shiny pink kola syrup and condensed milk.

Patí (turnover)

In snack bars and sodas in Caribbean cities like Puerto Limón and Cahuita, the patí, or patty, is ever-present. Much like an empanada, it’s filled with substances like sweetened plantain and pineapple. It’s a technique of survival for a lot of Afro Costa Rican ladies, who as soon as bought them on trains and busy streets from wicker baskets; many proceed the custom utilizing Tupperware containers.

Sopa de pejibaye (peach palm soup)

Pejibaye, a starchy orange palm fruit, was broadly planted throughout Costa Rica previous to colonization. The fruit must be boiled for a minimum of an hour to be edible, after which, as soon as peeled and pitted, it may be pureed right into a soup with inventory, cream, and seasoning.

Miel de chiverre (sweetened squash paste)

Costa Rica has the everyday pan-Latin sweets like flan, tres leches cake, and arroz con leche, however extra endemic is that this chunky, candy paste made out of chiverre, the fig leaf gourd. This huge squash has a candy, spaghetti-like flesh that will get dried after which cooked with panela, cinnamon, and different spices. The locals’ favourite method to eat it’s because the filling of a candy empanada, although it’s additionally used to make sweet or simply eaten with a spoon.

What to Drink in Costa Rican Cafes and Bars

Espresso in all probability involves thoughts when one thinks of consuming in Costa Rica, and there’s a great cause for that. Whereas espresso plantations targeted totally on amount for greater than a century, current many years have seen a shift towards higher traceability and micro-lots, leading to extra distinct coffees that may be present in new-wave cafes and roasters in San José and the occasional seaside city.

In rural and Indigenous components of the nation, you’ll be able to nonetheless discover historical, sweetened drinks like pinolillo and tiste, made out of cacao mixed with cornmeal or often rice. You might also discover agua de sapo, a refreshing concoction made out of ginger, panela, and lime. There are additionally chichas, low-proof drinks made out of fermented corn or fruits like pejibaye.

When it comes to alcohol, the nationwide drink is the sugarcane-based guaro, which is typically combined with tomato juice, lime juice, and sizzling sauce for the shot-sized chiliguaro. The overall inhabitants leans towards mass-market lagers like Imperial and Pilsen, although craft breweries across the nation, like Treintaycinco, Cervecería Calle Cimarrona, Fuego Brew Co., and Papagayo, are upping their sport on a regular basis. In the meantime, experimental bartenders are that includes native botanicals and fermented drinks; search for enjoyable choices from celeb bartender Liz Furlong at sizzling spot Cata Agave Bar in Tamarindo, in addition to the clubby, whimsical Dbar and lodge bars like Celajes and Sentido Norte.

When to Eat Breakfast, Lunch, and Dinner in Costa Rica

On condition that meals like rice, beans, and tortillas are sometimes eaten at breakfast, lunch, and dinner, meals in Costa Rica can appear repetitive. Breakfast tends to be heavy, with gallo pinto typically joined by eggs and fried plantains, whereas lunch and dinner swap out the eggs for easy proteins and some greens. Within the afternoon, particularly on the weekends, a cup of espresso and a baked good like an empanada or cookie could also be added.

Through the week, most meals are taken at residence, together with noon lunch, when many companies shut down; the meal is likely to be adopted by a siesta too. These on the go can cease by a soda, that are normally open from breakfast till the afternoon, whereas different eating places have a tendency to shut their kitchens by 10 p.m., if not earlier. For weekend lunches, household gatherings turn out to be full-day affairs with tamales and slow-cooked stews like olla de carne, whereas rural and seaside eating places are at their busiest.

The place to Eat Costa Rica’s Traditional Dishes With the Locals

Whereas gringo-run eating places with customary worldwide menus stuffed with imported substances rule many resort cities, they aren’t the place most Ticos choose to eat. Contemporary, seasonal produce and regionally raised and caught meats and seafood can usually be discovered alongside the facet of the freeway. Outdoors of formal eating places, there are another spots for a great meal:

Sodas

Outdoors of somebody’s residence, sodas are the place to eat conventional Costa Rican meals. These unpretentious, unbiased eating places vary from easy lunch counters in city markets to sprawling, family-run eating places within the countryside. The menus could have a mixture of regional favorites, plus low-cost set meals like casados.

Marisquerías

Marisquerías are much like sodas, however they concentrate on seafood. They’re principally discovered alongside the coasts, although not essentially proper on the seaside. They’ll supply easy dishes like camarónes al ajillo (garlic shrimp), arroz con mariscos (rice with combined seafood), grilled or fried fish, soups, and ceviches.

Ferias del agricultor

On Fridays, Saturdays, or Sundays, each area of Costa Rica holds its weekly feria, a farmer’s market centered round seasonal fruit and veggies. There’s usually dwell music and distributors promoting ready-to-eat meals like pipas (younger coconuts), sliced fruits, gallos, and empanadas.

Roadside fruit stands

On highways and nation roads all through Costa Rica, open-air fruit stands are straightforward pit stops. Other than the mangoes and bananas, preserve an eye fixed out for fruits like manzana de agua (water apples), guanábana (soursop), carambola (star fruit), mamón Chino (rambutan), mamey, and marañon (cashew fruit).

Costa Rica’s Most Thrilling Eating places

The restaurant revolution that swept up a lot of South America and finally Central American neighbors like Panama and Guatemala arrived late to Costa Rica, however new eating ideas have been constructing steadily for the reason that COVID-19 pandemic.

Pablo Bonilla’s restaurant Sikwa, in San José’s Los Yoses neighborhood, has led the way in which, strengthening relationships with fishermen and foragers. The chef has additionally been working carefully with Indigenous communities just like the Boruca and Bribrí to resurrect ancestral dishes. The operation was initially positioned in a small nook in a cultural heart, however since 2021, Bonilla has served a seven-course tasting menu from a extra formal, jungle-themed house, full with a full bar of authentic cocktails using substances like ardour fruit mead and breadnut bitters. In 2024, Bonilla is opening the 30-seat Crudo Izakaya Latino subsequent door, melding Japanese and Costa Rican flavors.

Not distant, Silvestre, set in a fantastically restored Thirties Barrio Amón home, is serving up to date Costa Rican meals by means of its elaborate tasting menus. Isolina is equally positioned in a 1942 Barrio Escalante residence, constructed for the Escalante household; the restaurant serves seasonal cocktails and minimal-intervention wines alongside seasonal, eclectic pan-Latin dishes with Mediterranean touches.

Whereas the scene started within the capital, it has steadily been shifting outward, permitting extra connections between eating places and the nation’s wild terrain. After years working in France, chef José González returned residence and opened Al Mercat in San José in 2014, the place he explored the nation’s biodiversity by means of foraged and fermented substances. In 2022, he transplanted the venture into the mountains at Copey de Dota, the place he has direct entry to lake trout, native fruits like papayuela, and highland cheeses. In Playa Potrero, chef Gilberto Briceño creates immersive culinary experiences on the Highway Much less Traveled Delicacies, which affords pop-up meals in Guanacaste’s jungles and on its seashores, in addition to from a four-seat restaurant.

Although the up to date culinary scene remains to be in its early days, it’s steadily spreading towards the jungles and seashores, the place pop-ups, surf cafes, and artistic road meals distributors are displaying indicators they’re extra excited by working with the nation’s pure bounty than making an attempt to enchantment to the unsustainable calls for of vacationers.

Author and photographer Nicholas Gill is the founding father of the publication and podcast New Worlder.